We leave Italy tomorrow, so today has been a day of last times. The last time we will eat gelato. The last time we will climb the 800 stairs to our hotel from the main street in Taormina. The gelato was a serious matter. Which flavor should we get? I was guided by my son. We got chocolate and mint, although I was planning to have chocolate and pistachio. It was a good decision and an attractive one, too: bright pale green and dark dark chocolate. We spent our last morning wandering in the public gardens and then eating pizza and mista salad. Then my son retreated to Lord of the Rings and I went for a swim. After the last supper, we go to sleep immediately and get up tomorrow at 5 for 24 hours of travel back to Massachusetts. But this is nothing compared to 19th century travel. This is how I am consoling myself. I have no interest in returning to the states.